Do we communicate, you and I?


Chess, by Charlotte Herczfeld

Mystery, the fantastic, ambiguousity. What does inspire your thoughts and feelings?

 

Art needs to evoke a response, and play a part in a dialogue. It is about communication. Painting is so often a lonely work (maybe necessarily so), and the opportunities to meet the viewers are few. To me, my painting tends to feel like a monologue except during exhibitions, while what I aim for is the dialogue, the touching of minds and emotions. The internet opens up good opportunities to meet, thankfully.

 

"Chess", (see larger Chess in this link) is an unusal painting from my mind and hand. It is mostly pure fantasy, "a pigment of my imagination". The image just popped into my mind. You know they say “creativity is 1% inspiration, and 99% transpiration? It felt like an “elementary particle” – an “ideon” – passed through my brain and left a perceptible trace in the form of an image. That was the inspiration part.  All I knew was that my inner vision said there should be masks of the Venetian type playing chess, and the placement of the masks and the angle of the chessboard. The rest was pure hard work.

 

What does it mean, what is it about? This people ask me. What can I say, as every one of you will create a story of your own in your mind, it will be symbolic for you in your special way.

 

I would be delighted if you would like to share your interpretation here in this blog. (You are welcome to write in Swedish, Danish, Norwegian, French, German, as well as in English.) Your stories are part of the artwork -- of the dialogue between the artist and the viewers. I want to make this an artproject together with you, and print out the stories and show them with the painting next time I exhibit it. (Please indicate if you want to be anonymous, or want to share your story on the blog only.)

 

So let's talk, let's have a dialogue!

 

 

 

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(Post in Swedish) ** Vernissage 22 oktober! **

Äntligen en ny utställning! Du är hjärtligt välkommen till

 

Vernissage och presentation
 

 ”Sommarens ljus”


Impressionistiska målningar av
Charlotte Herczfeld

 

Datum: 22 oktober 2011

Tid:   Klockan 1300 – 1700
Plats:
Domkyrkosalen, Katolska domkyrkan Folkungagatan 46, T – Medborgarplatsen
Ca. kl 1500 berättar jag om ”Hur man känner igen äkta impressionism”
Utställningen pågår t.o.m. den 6 november, och visas efter överenskommelse, tel. 08 – 747 10 32.

 

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Exhibition, Opening on 22 October

Dear English speaking readers, should you happen to be in Stockholm between October 22 and November 6 (2011), I'd love to see you at my exhibition. The Opening is on October 22, please contact me for further details on where it is.

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The Blue Gate (Stockholm)


The Blue Gate / Blå Porten

I have not blogged for months, and the good news is that today all people in my immediate family are hale and well. I have painted, even painted en plein air on the streets and parks of my hometown, Stockholm, Sweden.

 

There is a whole island which once was a royal hunting ground, called Djurgården. The zoo Skansen and the amusement park Gröna Lund are on this island, and so is the 17th century ship Vasa. It is a very popular recreational area.

 

Many years ago, one king decided to open the park for visitors, and put up a gate. This gate is still preserved, even though it has been moved several times, the latest to a place very close to where it was once raised. It has been freshened up, and this landmark is called The Blue Gate. Which it is. Vividly. A pure bright cobalt blue, which made a beautiful contrast to the summer foliage of an urban landscape. When nature is solidly green, I prefer to paint in structures that are man-made, to supply variety and interest. And when the structure has grace and beauty of its own, it is perfect.

 

Look at the larger picture of the impressionist painting The Blue Gate (Blå Porten) on my website.

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J. Herczfeld -- the little I've heard about him

Sometimes people ask me about an artist who signs his paintings J. Herczfeld. As far as I know, it is not a relative. The name Herczfeld is maybe not very common, but it isn't rare either. The origins of it is the town Bad Hersfeld in Germany. My husband's ancestor moved from there to the Austro-Hungarian empire, ended up in Hungary, where the 's' changed phonetically to 'cz'. Back in those times, 1800s, people often got their last name from the town they were from. (Like the 'Spanish' painter El Greco -- The Greek. Or Leonardo, that guy from the place called Vinci.) There are plenty of Herczfeld, Hersfeld, Hersfeldt, Herczfeldt etc all over the world.

 

J. might be a John, according to one source. One story I heard is that he was a young man who walked neighbourhoods, knocked on doors, to sell paintings and drawings. Sometimes alone, sometimes together with a young woman. This seems to have happened about two to three generations ago. Possibly in the 30s, or 40s.

 

I doubt his paintings are worth anything much, so enjoy the beauty of them, and know you have a piece of one man's history in your possession. He got a meal that day the painting changed hands. And could buy a new tube of paint.

 

 

 

 

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Orchid and Chopsticks, painting the IAPS juried in entry


Orchid and Chopsticks, Charlotte Herczfeld

Orchid and Chopsticks, the painting which got accepted into the 17th juried show of the IAPS, (the International Association of Pastel Societies, do go and see the fantastic entries and the awarded paintings, it is really a treat for the eyes, these artists are very good), so, yes, this painting is painted from real life, as are all my still-lifes. The human eye sees so very much more than what a camera does, even a good camera. In its turn, the good camera 'sees' and records so much more than what a printer can print, which is why printed photographs are not the best material to work from -- if you want to depict the effects of light. (Photographs work well for other manners of painting, but not for the impressionist tradition.)

This blog-post is for you who are interested in the whole painting process, and for you who are fascinated by this particular way of painting light and colour.

Nothing goes as planned, which this painting proves. I had originally thought to paint orchid blossoms against a light olive-green background, featuring only the flowers. As I was working with the set-up, the idea grew and changed. Light olive became a dark olive (note the old t-shirt serving as a backdrop). I had some laquered Japanese chopsticks I thought of, and then the idea of flirting with elements from the Far East coalesced in my mind. Not a painting trying to imitate styles of other cultures, but a little dalliance with it. Stone gardens, blossoms, bowls, chopsticks. As I was moving the elements around, I decided the composition would be basically circular, or oval to be more precise, so after this photo was taken, I changed some things. The main colour scheme is pinks and greens.



To the left, above, you see a little bit of the setup behind the painting on the easel. As you can see, the photo and the painting (which is not colour corrected for the yellow indoor lightbulb) don't look the same in colour. That is because a camera does not record colour right. The actual painting is much closer to reality than the photo of the items, I have witnesses!

A good tip is to always take a photo of your set-up. I studied variations on the screen of my computer, tried different crops, made changes virtually, which were then made in real life, by moving objects. For example, to get the right curve of the blossoms, which sagged by their own weight, I had to tie them up with a piece of string. Another reason for having a photo of your final setup is that catastrophies can happen. What if you knock it all down, accidentally? It is much easier to re-create it with the help of a recording.

Here's how I paint:

First I do a contour drawing, placing the elements of the composition on the picture plane. The 'action-oval' sits rather high, and the tablecloth dropping down the front serves as an area of little action, a space to rest.

1. (In picture below.) Usually, often, I work on white or a light creamy or sandy tone, in order to let the light reflect better. This time, as the painting was to have many dark areas, I chose to paint on a terracotta coloured piece of Pastelmat. The large masses are blocked in, in the colour of the light, and the colour of the weaker light in the shadows. All light masses get warm colours (direct light is warm), and all the shadow masses get cool colours (the reflected light of my working light is a cool daylight, therefore slightly bluish). These are not local colours (or rarely so), but the colours of light reflected off the surfaces. The background is a dark blue, I hardly ever use black. Stage one is an underpainting, setting the stage for what is to follow.

2. (For you who follow this method, this is the start of stage two, not the finish of it.) Here the relative values are corrected, if needed. In this case, it was needed, as I needed to push the lights lighter (a white or light paper usually does that job, but this paper was darker than the lights). The layers of colour are also built up, to come closer to what I see. But, what about the missing flowers, you ask, didn't you plan for them? Yes I did, but here's a trick: That which is important and which you want to catch attention, that is roughly blocked in at the start, in stage one. That which is to be subdued and hinted at is treated as one mass at the beginning, and added only later as details, in order for it to 'melt into' the background or surroundings. Picture 2, to the right, shows where I stop to evaluate stage 2, and I notice I've painted three equally spaced fold in the cloth, and that is boring, and also detracting, so I paint over the middle stripe of light, as well as deepen the tone of the background, and the drop of the tablecloth.



3. Here is where I start to build volume, making it all three-dimensional looking by adding bands of colour variations. You who know this method will see that I've rushed past stage 3 in the flowers, and nearly finished them. I had to, as the hot halogen light started to change the living flowers too rapidly, for example opening the bud that is the center of interest. I had to respond to the real situation, but as the foundation was solid, all the relationships of the major masses were correct enough, I could do that. Here is where I add bigger details as the flowers that are to be subdued and in shadow.

4. Nearly finished stage four. More colour variations create more 3D. The easiest seen is probably the pinkish reddish band following the left curve of the bawl, which is the reflection of the lit tablecloth. The far right shadow of the chopsticks is added, as it is a small detail, as well as the bright reflection inside the bowl. Here is where the quality of the edges are finalised, too. Some are sharpened, some are blurred. Some edges may need to be more lost, others more found. The final check is for drawing errors that inevitably happen in the process of painting.

See a larger version of the finished painting in the Works section of this site.

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The Landscape painting "The Burnt Lot II" (Stockholm)


The Burnt Lot II (Swedish: Brända Tomten II) is the larger painting I have made of this charming spot. Snipping from the Wikipedia article:

The Burnt Lot "is a small, triangular public square in Gamla stan, the old town in central Stockholm, Sweden.

"A few benches under a chestnut tree, the ivy hanging from the surrounding façades makes the space a lush, relaxed spot. During summers, a network of storytellers gather around the benches to tell their stories both to enthusiasts and passers-by.A building (...) destroyed by fire in 1728, was apparently not rebuilt for a few decades, which gave first the lot and then the open space their names. The turning radius of horse-drawn vehicles made open spaces necessary..."

It has stayed as an open space since, now being a small oasis in the midst of the Old Town.

The colours of the houses enchant me, and after a summer of painting predominately green and blue paintings, both outdoors and indoors, I really needed some rusts and golds, to get variety! The graceful curve of the ivy is in small ways repeated all through the painting, both clearly, and in some cases well hidden but still influencing the structure of the painting.

(Now, how can a square be triangular? :-)

Larger image of artwork on my site.
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Functional DIY Plein Air Equipment

Funktional, indeed -- pretty, elegant, pro looking... well, not exactly. On the other hand, making stuff work is what it is all about. I think it looks more professional than high end stuff. This construction is by a bona fide working starving artist, right?  :-)

If you're an artist, have you ever drooled over some of the professional field easels? And then hesitated, as the cost is more than you really want to pay, and then shipping overseas isn't exactly budget friendly either. Feel free to copy or borrow ideas from my design.

I've found that when there is need for a solution, there is also an imagination at work on how to solve the problem. I had Daddy's old lightweight aluminium camera tripod, which I use for photography, so it was important to keep it functional for the camera, which means every addition had to be reversible. It took some "headology" to make it work, and work it does!

In the picture below, A shows the easel components, tripod, canvas/board holder, table with the tripod handle on it. Setting it up, going from A to B, takes about a minute, and most of that time is taken up by turning two screws. (After seeing artists set up the so called French easels, I swore to never engage in a close encounter wrestling match with one of those, as the FE won!)

















C, with insert, shows how simply the shelf is attacked -- a hole into which the center pole fits, and when the pole is lowered and locked, the shelf can't tilt or tip on its own. And, the shelf can be swiveled around independently even in the locked position. Notice that the canvas holder's bottom horizontal bar sits a good distance over the shelf. It is much more comfortable to have it above sleave-dragging-in-pastel-box level. The shelf will get velcro strips on it, to hold pastel boxes securely to it.

The canvas holder started life as a table top display easel I'd gotten as a present (1). It is foldable, so it gave me the idea to use it as if it was indeed folded together. A scrap of wood attached to the back at the bottom keeps it together (2), and the top has a a bit of sawed off 'leg' from the original easel to secure against sideways movement (no image, but a hint of it in 5). I didn't want too many fragile parts sticking out during transport, so the bottom bar of the canvas/board holder is attached to only one side, and can be swung down, as show in (3) and (4).




This part is as versatile as I could make it: it tilts slightly forward (5), back (6), and even nearly 180 degrees upside down! (Have not figured out a use for that -- yet!)

The middle strip of wood, which has the top cross-bar attached to it, can be turned upside down, which gives a range for hight of canvas/board from 0 to 63 cm (almost 25 inches). While a big board/canvas wouldn't be very stable, it would be stable enough for situations when you don't want to bring the huge studio easel.

The easel, and I, in full Plein Air action. Note the equally 'elegant' shopping bag on wheels. I've been given it, and it is probably from the 50s. They made good sturdy things back then. I can put all my gear into it, including water bottle, lunch, extra sweater, camera, and other small stuff. The very lightweight chair was  carried from the car. I usually paint standing up, but the tripod legs can be shortened with three easy clicks, for sitting and painting.

Next project will be to construct lightweight but yet sturdy boxes, for the pastel sticks. I bring about 100 hues and tints and a few shades. The green box on my shelf holds that amount easily, especially as I bring no larger bits than thirds of sticks. The 'board' holding the painting is a sketching pad, and it serves for holding pastel paper, interleaved, finished pastel sketches too. The sketching pad can be sketched in, with a pencil (what a surprise... ) Bulldog clamps holds it all securely, and the PA sketches survive just spendidly being transported in the bag, even over rougher terrain. With 3 Tombow brush pens, I can do quick notans on location, in the sketching pad. By making the pad serve so many uses, I've trimmed down weight and number of things to bring, as this is all my PA gear, plus a terrycloth towel and weat wipes.

Materials used for building tripod easel:

  • tripod
  • plywood (shelf)
  • foldable display easel
  • scrap of wood
  • sawn off bits from easel
  • screws
  • glue
  • and a 'hole', the kind of nut that is inserted at bottoms of cameras, for attaching the holder to the head of the tripod.

The cost was basically nothing, as I had all the things, including a 'dead' camera I could slaughter to get the 'hole'. (The 'hole' was tricky, contact me if you want to know how I handled it.)

I realize I was lucky to have a tripod this old-fashioned, so the shelf was easily attachable (remove center pole, stick pole in shelf, stick pole in tripod, lower, lock). As the weight is centered, the tripod is very stable. I see absolutely no need for attaching the whole thing to anything while being out, it would take a gale to tip it.

With a more modern tripod, you can hang a box or a shelf on it very easily. A very good solution is by James M Coulter, scroll down to see his smart box. It is the handles at the back edge that is all that holds the box to two tripod legs.

I have  a plywood shelf I attached to a watercolour field easel (I used it for oils), working according to the same principles as Coulter's box, but it isn't strong enough for heavy pastels, or rather, the whole thing becomes unbalanced and risk tipping forward. Though, one idea is to support the shelf with a telescoping leg, or a telescoping walking stick, the kinds that allow you to exercise your arms as you walk.

Oh, yes, I built it all by myself. The electric saw, drill, and the whole toolbox are mine!
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Green Grass of Home, pastel landscape by Charlotte Herczfeld


Green Grass of Home
Sometimes, summer can be very green. Trees are green, grass is green, as in this painting of a parklike landscape. Could I keep intense greens, and still maintain a sense of depth in the landscape? The painting fought me, but I think I won in the end.

See the large version of the painting. It looks better there, more like the original than the very small picture in this blogpost.
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Towards the Light, details

Pictures of paintings really do not do justice to the paintings, althought we artists try to make the image look as much as the artwork as is possible. The camera 'sees' less than what the human eye does.

Here are some details from "Towards the Light", so you can see some of the strokes that make up the painting.

Water:



Foliage:



Stones:



As you see, the quality and direction of strokes varies as the surface vary, and as is needed. It wouldn't work well to do this kind of water with the same type of random marks as foliage. A boulder wouldn't look rounded by age and water if all strokes had been horizontal.

Initial strokes (no picture), are usually made with the side of the pastel stick. Think of it as a broad brush, and the tip of the  pastel stick as a small brush.

Varied strokes tend to give a livlier appearence to a painting, and helps build character and form.
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